It’s 4.30 am and i’m about to embark on an amazing little surf journey with some new friends i did not really know yet.
I find myself in these situations quite alot , with the whiff of adventure, waves and a sense of new experiences ,constantly breaking out of my comfort zones.
I met up with Kasey from rusty who part owned the mega boat with a friend as he generously offered to spoil us with a trip out to the Channel Islands.He often burrz out to the islands as we learned and with keeness frothing out of him i was very excited and privlledged to be going.Along with us was legendary Michael Tompson and young son Ollie, 14. which was a bit of a treat!
So bellies full of bagels and coffee American style, we set off for a 3 hour car drive and an hour boat ride.I was informed to have 4′2 full siut ,gloves, hoodie and booties but unprepared i only had my 3′2 full suit!
we finally got to the destination of what we were antissipating a 3 foot clean swell to find a 2 foot in consistant peak that held so much potential to be so fun!
After passing amazing scenery and lots of seals the thought crossed my mind of what could be lurking in the cold waters below …
White pointers were deffinately on the mind but the urge of catching a wave with some new friends and in a new place won over and was so fun!
We jumped off the boat and paddled over thick kelp beds and had a fun surf till my knee and ankle joints started to ache and go numb, it was the coldest weirdest sensation i have had.I felt like a woose as i saw a cute inquistive seal playing around checking us out like it was a warm summers day!.
Hypothermia set in and we set off home intime for L.A traffic at its best!
The day was amazing , experience topped off my trip to America and one ill always remember and feel very grateful for ….
So whether its surfing or anything uncomfortable have faith and push through the unknown and embrace your opportunities for you never know whats in store for you !
Kalm.x.
